The old and the new sit comfortably alongside each other in Rutherglen, one of Australia’s most historic wine regions, travel editor Winsor Dobbin reports.
In north-east Victoria, right on the border with New South Wales, you’ll discover long-established wine-growing families and innovative newcomers; traditional fortified wines and new grape varieties; wonderful atmospheric old cellars and shiny new facilities.
Visiting the great fortified wine producers of Rutherglen, where grapes were first grown in the 1850s, around the time of the gold rush, is like taking a step back in time.
Drop in to the cellars of Morris, and neighbours Chambers, Stanton & Killeen, All Saints, Bullers, St Leonards and Campbells, and you can smell the history among the big old barrels storing ancient stocks of fortified wines.
While Rutherglen’s reputation was built on its famous port-style wines, muscats and tokays (now known as topaques), it is also a go-ahead wine region with several producers thinking outside the square and producing innovative new wine styles.
That said, you’ll almost certainly find assertive reds made from shiraz and durif alongside the fortified gems.
The Morris family started making wine in 1885 and a few years later was reported to be the biggest wine producer in the southern hemisphere.
Current winemaker Madden Morris is the sixth generation to hold the reins after taking over from his father David in the company’s 165th year. He describes the family wines as “legacy in a glass”.
The business is now owned in partnership with Casella Family Brands, from Yenda in the NSW Riverina.
Over the past decade, Casella Family Brands has invested in the Morris of Rutherglen business, building on its cellar door offering and resuming long-lost distilling operations to produce world-class whiskies made by Scottish-born head distiller Darren Peck.
Morris is now a triple-threat destination offering wines, fortifieds and spirits.
Visitors should not miss the aromatic – and atmospheric – old cellars, and a tasting at the cellar door, where innovative wine cocktails are on offer.
Afterwards, try to make time to visit the Scion cellar door; where the old and new meet rather neatly.
Scion’s wines are made on-site by Rowly Milhinch, a great-great-great grandson of George Francis Morris, the founding father of Morris Wines.
Rutherglen is a small town, with a population of just 2,500. But along with surrounding towns like Wahgunyah it offers a variety of cellar door and dining experiences.
Check out Pickled Sisters Café and Thousand Pound Wine Bar, while Parker Pies in the main street is something of a regional legend.
If you want to stay a night or two then The Victoria Hotel should be on your radar.
When I visited a few years ago it was just another country pub on the main street.
Built in 1868, it had history on its side but looked in need of some care and attention. Now it has been re-born with chic accommodation, a bistro serving fun food and outdoor wining and dining.
For more than 150 years, The Victoria has been a gathering place. It began as a modest wooden building before being transformed into the iconic two-storey brick landmark by the magnificently named Shadrack Platts Gollings in 1893.
With its heritage features – including Rutherglen’s original mortuary tucked just beyond the carriage gates – The Victoria proudly holds the state’s longest continually operating hotel licence.
In 2021, Kate and Matt Halpin became the custodians of this historic landmark.
Their vision was to honour The Victoria’s heritage while transforming it into a modern destination that celebrates connection, community, and the spirit of the High Country.
Through a meticulous, multi-million-dollar restoration, they preserved the hotel’s historic character while introducing contemporary appointments and thoughtfully elevated experiences. They have fulfilled their mission.
There are now 14 impressive suites and, even on cold midweek nights the restaurant was jumping.
The Victoria offers all-king-suite accommodation just a short drive from the region’s many desirable drinking destinations.
For anyone arriving late, or checking out early, there is keyless experience with contactless check-in. The technology works!
The suites are a very generous size and feature air-conditioning and heating, flat-screen TV, Hunter Lab bathroom amenities, good sized fluffy towels, tea and coffee-making facilities, a phone charger that works, free high-speed wifi, a bar fridge, off-street guest parking and bath robes and slippers.
There is a lively bar, and several shared rooms like the clubby The Library in which to chill out.
Rutherglen is around 30 minutes’ drive from Albury/Wodonga, Wangaratta and Yarrawonga,
The Victoria is the ideal base to explore north-east Victoria and the surrounding heritage townships of Beechworth, Milawa, Chiltern, Wahgunyah and Corowa.
Or venture a little further afield for a day trip to the King Valley, Alpine snowfields or picturesque Bright and Myrtleford, all located less than 90 minutes away.
See https://www.victoriahotelrutherglen.com.au/
NEED TO KNOW
Getting there: Rutherglen is a six-hour drive from Sydney. The closest airport is at Albury Wodonga, from where you can hire a car. Both QantasLink and Rex fly from Sydney to Albury.
# The writer was a guest of Morris of Rutherglen and Casella Family Wines.
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Airport win
Anyone who has attempted eating airport food recently knows that you can expect premium prices and a generally underwhelming experience.
Plenty of celebrity chefs have jumped on the airport eatery bandwagon – with varying degrees of success.
With a couple of hours to kill at Sydney Domestic Airport last month, I checked out Luke’s Bistro and Bar opposite Qantas departure gate 3 for the first time.
It is the latest food outlet for celebrity chef Luke Mangan, a serious kitchen talent, who I was stunned to find actually on the premises – and observing his staff at work.
The prices aren’t cheap, and we had a quick chat about the rents demanded by airports nowadays – and how you know anything cheap is not going to be good.
There is a nice relaxed vibe here, not the rushed scene I’d expected. You have to order using a QR code (boo!) but the drinks and food arrived promptly.
My late lunch comprised a nicely chilled large glass of Coriole Chenin Blanc, and a pleasingly warm and tasty Reuben sandwich. Both were delivered by smiling humans.
Early in the day menu options include a breakfast burger or scrambled eggs on sourdough, while day/evening offerings range from charcuterie towers to posh burgers, tuna sashimi tacos and steak frites.
If you have a little more time than I did there is a Seafood and Champagne Bar to explore. Freshly shucked oysters anyone?
There are also cocktails on offer. Next time.
Seehttps://www.sydneyairport.com.au/eat/lukes-bistro-and-bar/
See more of Winsor’s travel tips and news at www.gourmetontheroad.com