Quality Quaffer

Mad Fish 2017 Pinot Gris 

Pinot gris and pinot grigio, two different styles made from the same grape variety, are all the rage right now; gaining momentum just as sauvignon blanc did a decade ago. This is a very refreshing example from the entry-level label of top-notch West Australian producer Howard Park. It is a lovely summer drink, slightly pink from the grape skins, with pungent ripe pear aromas and fresh sea breeze and citrus notes. A great match for salt and pepper calamari. $20. 

Bodacious blend 

Flametree 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 

A classic blend of the Bordeaux red varieties of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and petit verdot, this is a red wine style in which Margaret River producers excel. Expect to find hints of violets on the nose and trademark dark chocolate, cassis, integrated French oak and impressive structure thanks to 14 months in barrel. This is drinking very well now but would also be a good cellaring prospect. From a reliably good producer. Match with steak and kidney pie. $28.

Ripper Riesling 

Mount Horrocks 2017 Watervale Riesling

Stephanie Toole is something of a riesling whisperer, producing cracking wines vintage after vintage, albeit from the stellar Watervale region of the Clare Valley. This is estate grown and certified organic, but what counts most is expressions of flavour and regionality that burst onto your palate. This is freshness vinified and from a stellar vintage; made without acid additions or fining, and vegan and vegetarian friendly. Think fresh-cut citrus explosions,  bright juicy acidity and remarkable length. Pair with veggie spring rolls.  $30. 

Winsor Dobbin