Off the beaten track
Why not take some wine roads less travelled, from stars made from Italian grape varieties to smaller wineries making little-known gems? Wine writer Winsor Dobbin is your tour guide.
Sicilian gem
Tornatore 2022 Etna Bianco
From the hillside of Mount Etna in Sicily, this is a delicious dry white full of crisp minerality and refreshment. It comes from a family producer that has been making wines since 1865. It is made from the native Sicilian grape carricante “from terraced vines on the northern side of the volcano”. Think a cold-fermented fruit salad of apple, grapefruit and peach flavours, with three months on lees having added palate interest. Pair with grilled seafood or fritto misto. Imported by Negociants. $48.
Tassie style
Holm Oak 2024 Protégé Pinot Noir
Wine lovers cannot get enough of cool-climate Tasmanian pinots – but the big names have become hard to find due to increased demand, and have there have been price rises. If you are looking for an entry level pinot that offers freshness, vibrancy and immediate drinking appeal then this one from a small wife-and-husband producer in the Tamar Valley is well worth seeking out. Fresh, fruity and vibrant, this is full of youthful fruit-driven vigour. Light, brisk and juicy and brilliant with Chinese roasted duck. $32.
Bright white
Ox Hardy 2024 Fiano
Andrew “Ox” Hardy is a member of one of Australia’s most famous winemaking families and has decades of winemaking experience under his belt. He planted Fiano vines in McLaren Vale 14 years ago after deciding that the Italian white variety would be well suited to the region’s Mediterranean climate. The fruit here has seen treatment in both stainless steel and older oak, producing a dry, food-friendly white with waves of flavour on the palate. Pair with anything from chicken salad to a vegetable quiche. $28.
Smart and savoury
Bruno dei Tornatore Vespa 2022 Primitivo Salento IGT
Primitivo, also known as zinfandel, is a versatile grape from the Mediterranean that has found great favour in California but is not much grown in Australia. The grape originates in Puglia, the southwestern -most region of Italy. Salento is a hot, dry region which covers the southern portion of Puglia and produces rich, intense wines. This finishes spicy and soft and is very well balanced. Pair with a charcuterie plate or Med veg tarts. Imported and distributed by Single Vineyard Sellers. $50.
Little Rascal
Fowles 2024 Stone Dwellers Arneis
Arneis is a white variety that originates in Piedmont but is growing in popularity in Australia, where it produces floral and flavoursome white wines that usually have stone fruit flavours to the fore. Arneis means little rascal in the local dialect because it can be a difficult variety to grow. The team from Fowles Wines in Strathbogie Ranges north of Melbourne have got things just right here, making a flavoursome white that has spent seven month on lees gaining complexity. This would pair with a frittata, or some croquettes. $28.
Family Favourite
Henschke 2023 Henry’s Seven
The Henschke family produces a formidable array of wines from Eden Valley and the Adelaide Hills across a wide range of price points. They are known for their attention to detail as is shown here with a delightful red blend that offers immediate drinking pleasure at a very fair price. A Rhone-style blend of shiraz, grenache and mataro, with a dash of viognier, it has bright fruit and hints of pepper. The name is a tribute to regional pioneer Henry Evans, who planted a seven-acre vineyard at Keyneton in 1853. Smooth and approachable and a good match for rare roast beef. $40.
See more of Winsor’s wine reviews at www.gourmetontheroad.com.
