From luxe to everyday drinking
Whether you want to buy a special bottle for Mum to mark Mother’s Day or are just looking for some good-value wine for midweek drinking, wine writer Winsor Dobbin has some stellar suggestions.
Serious stuff
Vasse Felix 2021 Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon
This is the showcase wine from one of the best wineries in Western Australia. Winemaker Virginia Willcock is knocking the ball out of the park with recent releases, and this new release showcases how stunning Margaret River cabernet blends can be, particularly when given for years to reach a peak before release. This is a blend of 81% cabernet and 19% malbec. Willcock says: “This is my dream texture. It is so subtle and restrained, yet it’s so deep. It is luscious, intense, multifaceted, plush, and comfortable without being heavy.” Couldn’t put it better myself. An absolute gem, although I might add “sublime” and “graceful.” 98 points for this one. $200.
Italian style
Maso di Mezo 2023 Pinot Grigio Rosato
There is some delightful Italian style to this vibrant and pale pink rose from vineyards in the shadows of the Dolomite Mountains in the far north of the country. It is one of dozens of excellent imports from Italy distributed by Sydney-based Single Vineyard Sellers. This is aromatic and lively with wild strawberry flavours and some brisk acidity on the palate. You could enjoy this as an aperitif, with picnics or a Middle Eastern mezze plate. Serve well chilled. $30.
Pinot paradise
Hoddles Creek 2024 Pinot Noir
Both the Hoddles Creek chardonnay and pinot noir are annual standouts when it comes to both quality and value. The price may have risen by a couple of bucks but that remains the case with the vintage releases, which offer exemplary Yarra Valley drinking for well under $30. Winemaker Franco d’Anna describes 2024 as a “great year” and this has lots of varietal character with a nice balance between fruit and savoury notes. This would be great with any duck dish, or a gourmet burger. A winner. $27.
Western style
Castle Rock Estate 2024 Porongurup Riesling
The Great Southern region of Western Australia has emerged over the past few years as one of the best in Australia for high-quality dry rieslings. One of the labels leading the charge is Castle Rock, where Rob Diletti makes no fewer than five rieslings in various styles. Crafted entirely from estate fruit, this is made using only the pure free run juice. A cool ferment in stainless steel has highlighted the bright fruit and acid. Super refreshing. $35.
Intriguing amalgam
Oliver’s Taranga 2024 Brioni’s Blend
Here is a juicy little taste of the Mediterranean from a family that has been making wines in McLaren Vale for 185 years. Brioni’s Blend is dedicated to sixth-generation family member Brioni Oliver, and is a blend of the Portuguese grape touriga, grenache and the Spanish grape mencia. Spicy but supple on the palate, this is a dark fruit-driven red that is full of youthful vigour. Designed for enjoying in its youth as a “joven” style, it would be perfect for pairing with an autumn barbecue or pasta dishes. $35.
Special chardonnay
Cullen 2024 Kevin John Chardonnay
Vintage after vintage, this is an Australian benchmark chardonnay that commemorates Margaret River pioneer Kevin John Cullen. His daughter Vanya – a finalist for Vigneron of the Year- and her team has crafted another wine that celebrates clarity and purity of the fruit and delivers a delightfully seamless drinking experience. From a hot, dry vintage there is plenty of concentration and length but also elegance. A hint of flint, citrus and melon nuances, astutely judged oak. Just delightful and worth 97 points. $180.
See more of Winsor’s wine reviews at www.gourmetontheroad.com.
