Heart-warming Reds
It is the time of the year to enjoy warming red wines and wine writer Winsor Dobbin has some suggestions ranging from cheap and cheerful to a special occasion cabernet from Margaret River.
Orange star
Angullong 2023 Fossil Hill Barbera
Angullong is a reliably good wine producer in the Central West of New South Wales that has been making wines from the Italian grape variety, barbera, for 20 years now after planting vines in 1999. This is a fresh and vibrant take on the Piedmont grape, with fruit playing the lead role. It is made by former Hunter Valley winemaker (and ex ice hockey star) Jeff Byrne. A particularly good all-purpose red that is excellent value and a good choice for any wine lover looking for something a little bit different. $30.
Classic Coonawarra
Jim Brand 2021 Silent Partner Cabernet Sauvignon
There is a poignant story behind the outstanding Silent Partner releases from Brand and Sons/Jim Brand Wines. The label’s founder, leading Coonawarra winemaker Jim Brand, died 20 years ago at the age of just 52, but his wine philosophies still guide his son Sam Brand and team’s direction – hence the name. The wines are made in small quantities and are well worth seeking out. There is power here, along with impressive balance – and classic Coonawarra characters to the fore. $40.
Spanish accent
Running with Bulls 2023 Tempranillo
Here is the perfect wine choice for a party or barbecue. The Running with Bulls 2023 Tempranillo comes in a 1.5-litre “bagnum”, or pouch, that is 90% lighter than glass. It is a juicy, fruity number made from Barossa grapes. The Spanish grape variety is medium-bodied, and savoury and the winemakers suggest pairing it with tapas, or a wood-fired pizza. I think it would also match well with chorizo dishes, or paella. The promise is that the wine stays fresh for 30 days after the pouch is opened. $30 for 1.5 litres – the equivalent of $15 a bottle.
Nifty Shiraz
Eastern Laneway Vintners 2024 Shiraz
There are some excellent shiraz bargains to be found if you look outside the traditional premium regions of the Barossa and McLaren Vale. This is another of those ALDI specials, made by the talented Rory Lane and winemaking partner Matt East from grapes grown in Victoria’s Grampian region. Some cool-climate notes to the fore here: violets on the nose, pepper, and spice, along with a taut, poised, easy drinking palate. Minimal intervention winemaking is used and this certainly represents good value. On sale for $14.99 until July 22.
Pinot Pleasure
Xavier Wine 2024 Gippsland Pinot Noir
The word is getting out that Xavier Goodridge is a rising star in the winemaking business, using fruit from the increasingly trendy region of Gippsland in Victoria. He makes some entry-level wines under the Pa Pa by Xavier label and higher-end offerings like this effortlessly elegant and nuanced pinot noir with distinctive blue fruits and minerality. There is impressive structure here in a wine that remains light on its feet. Very stylish, extremely pretty, and perfect for matching with chicken or duck dishes. A name to watch out for. $45.
All class
Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon
If you have a special occasion to celebrate, or someone who deserves a treat then this excellent Bordeaux-style blend would be an excellent choice if you have cash to splash. From one of the best producers in Margaret River this is a complex and rewarding wine that would grace any dinner party. Think complexity, intensity, and balance, with quality French oak playing a key supporting role. The breakdown is 94% cabernet sauvignon, 4% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. Sold out at the winery, but there is still some in retail land. $150.
See more of Winsor’s wine reviews at www.gourmetontheroad.com.
