Affordable Gems
You don’t have to pay a fortune to enjoy a seriously good bottle of Australian wine. Drinks writer Winsor Dobbin showcases some of his recent favourites.
Something special
Penfolds 2023 Bin 28 Shiraz
You probably can’t afford to splash out on a bottle of Grange for Father’s Day, but there are a lot of other fine red wines among the recent Penfolds releases that will please any wine-loving Dad. Bin 28 is one of the best buys in the 2025 Collection; a hearty Australian shiraz that is powerful and generously flavoured, but at the same time immediately approachable. The 2023 vintage is a multi-region, multi-vineyard blend with a good dash of Barossa fruit in the mix. Think dark fruit, impressive oak and bold structure. Aromatic, brambly with savoury tobacco and olive notes. Pair with a rib-eye steak, or cellar for as long as you – or Dad – wish. $50.
Serious style
Kooyong 2024 Clonale Chardonnay
This is always one of my favourite cool-climate chardonnays of the year; from vineyards and a winemaking team that are a model of consistency vintage after vintage. If you enjoy top-notch Chablis but find the price tags daunting then this is a very good Australian alternative. There is lots of verve and vigour here with a stylish blend of citrus and stone fruit. The Clonale fruit is sourced from Kooyong’s Tuerong and Balnarring vineyards on the Mornington Peninsula and is matured in a mixture of French oak barriques and puncheons, most of them older, for nine months. Impressively put together and ready for immediate enjoyment, Match with spicy pork belly. $35.
Pink pleasure
Winesmiths 2025 Dry Rosé
With warmer days just around the corner, a cask of this dry rosé in the fridge would be just the trick from when friends drop around. Winesmiths is a family-owned wine-on-tap brand from Hill-Smith Family Estates, who also own Yalumba. They have partnered with artist Claire Ishino for a new collection of limited edition 2-litre packs, available from September through December. The rosé is fresh, dry and vibrant, perfect for enjoying chilled with a picnic or a Lebanese mezze feast. Terrific value and will last for six weeks after being opened if you only enjoy the occasional glass. $16 for 2 litres.
Western star
Harewood Estate 2024 Flex V Pinot Noir
Western Australia’s Great Southern region is one of the largest, most isolated wine regions in the world – and produces a wide range of styles. James Kellie from Harewood Estate uses his Flux label to experiment with different winemaking styles – and the unique labels are hard to miss. This new release is a wine with real personality – more meaty than some pinots after being matured in a mix of new and older French oak barriques. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered, and has an impressive kaleidoscope of flavours and textures. Part of the Single Vineyard Sellers portfolio. $40.
Ambitious project
Marnong Estate 2024 Fiano
Here is a name to look out for. Marnong Estate is a sprawling 1200-hectare property just outside Sunbury – near Melbourne Airport – that has signed up former Briar Ridge winemaker Alex Beckett and is making a range of exciting wines at very reasonable price points. Fiano is a white grape variety from Campania and Sicily that is proving increasingly popular with Australian makers and consumers. This is straw-coloured, textural and very food friendly with hints of citrus, sea salt and minerality on an interesting creamy palate. Pair with anything from a vegetable quiche to seafood pasta dishes. $35.
Bargain buy
St Hallett 2023/2024 Faith Shiraz
Here’s another of those “How do they do it for the price?” releases from ALDI supermarkets – an ideal choice for a Father’s Day barbecue. I really enjoyed the 2023 release from this star Barossa producer with its medium-bodied, ripe fruit appeal and hints of Asian spice. Vintage may vary from store to store. The soft palate appeal and fruit-forward flavours make this a very good budget buy. Pair with roast meats or a bowl of spaghetti bolognaise. On sale for $14.99 at ALDI stores until late October.
See more of Winsor’s wine reviews at www.gourmetontheroad.com.
