Crisp, cool-climate wines from Tasmania are perfect for late summer refreshment. Wine writer Winsor Dobbin selects some standouts and also tastes a couple of NSW local heroes.
Effortless Style
Marco Lubiana 2024 Chardonnay
Marco Lubiana is part of winemaking royalty in Tasmania. The son of respected innovator Stefano Lubiana, Marco is the sixth generation of vignerons in the family. He specialises in chardonnay and pinot noir and has access to fruit from the Derwent and Huon Valleys. His wines are routinely pure and captivating and this new release shines. It uses fruit from the biodynamic family estate north of Hobart and has a captivating blend of citrus and minerality on the nose, leading to racy stone fruit on the palate, impressive texture, and balanced acid on the finish. Delicious. $70.
Tasmanian treat
Bream Creek 2024 Estate Pinot Noir
From a reliably impressive producer on the Tasman Peninsula, this wine is a solid bet year-in, year-out. The 2024 vintage was a difficult one, but the estate pinot has collected a swag of show medals and trophies across the country. Think classic cherry and berry characters with hints of spice and astutely judged oak. Beautifully balanced; ready to drink now but also cellar worthy. Pair with some Chinese roast duck. $50.
Pink pleasure
Quiet Mutiny 2025 Charlotte’s Elusion Rosé
Here is a rosé with a difference; primarily made from the pinot meunier grape that is traditionally used in sparkling wines. Here we have a dry table wine that is perfect for enjoying chilled over summer. Quiet Mutiny is the personal label of Greer Carland, whose family owns Laurel Bank vineyard. This was a standout at the recent Budburst Tassie Wine Expo. The fruit was sourced from the warmer East Coast of Tasmania and this lively number has both vibrancy and personality. Perfect for enjoying with a Middle Eastern mezze plate, or some pan-fried wild salmon. $37
Surprise package
Future Perfect 2024 Shiraz
Shiraz from Tasmania? Yes, several producers from the Apple Isle are now making perfumed and spicy shirazes that are quite different in style from their South Australian counterparts. Talented winemaker Thomas New has sourced his small-batch shiraz from the Coal River Valley (near to Hobart Airport) and produced a medium-bodied, savoury, peppery and very food friendly red for immediate enjoyment. $45.
Italian accent
First Ridge 2025 Vermentino
First Ridge Wines in Mudgee is making some impressive whites from Italian varietals. I tasted an excellent fiano from here a few weeks ago, and the vermentino is just as good: intensely flavoured and vibrant. It was fermented in stainless steel using an aromatic yeast to capture the natural characteristics and highlight the fruit flavours from a grape that is widely grown across Sardinia, Tuscany, and Liguria in its homeland. Match with a prawn linguine. $28.
Hunter hit
Gundog Estate 2025 The Chase Semillon
Nothing says summer like a chilled glass or two of a fresh, young, and crisp Hunter Valley semillon matched with some freshly shucked oysters. This one from Matt Burton at Gundog Estate is right in the zone with zingy citrus and green herbal notes, allied to zesty, refreshing acid on the finish. Made from grapes grown on old vines in Pokolbin, it also matched impressively with a seafood pad Thai. $35.
See more of Winsor’s wine news and reviews at www.gourmetontheroad.com
