The Vietnamese capital is a city on the move, with great food and a wide choice of impressive accommodation options, travel editor Winsor Dobbin reports.
Hanoi is big, brash and a great destination for tourists right now.
With an urban population of 8.5 million, and a rapidly growing economy, Hanoi has retained its authenticity even as high-rise buildings sprout like mushrooms on the city outskirts. It is also remarkably affordable. The historic Old and French Quarters retain their charm, and you can still enjoy a Bia Hoi (local brew) sitting on a milk crate on the sidewalk.
The Old Quarter still has some of the architecture of old Hanoi and many French colonial buildings survive. So much so that Hanoi is often called “the Paris of the East.” Many streets in the Old Quarter have names signifying the goods (hàng) in which the local merchants specialised.
Sensibly, a low-rise policy means Hoan Kiem Lake and the Ba Dinh District remain undisturbed by skyscrapers.
The Presidential Palace and Grand Opera House, as well as Hoan Kiem Lake, are major drawcards, along with Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, Thăng Long Water Puppet Theatre,Hoa Lo Prison (the infamous Hanoi Hilton), and one of the grandest hotels in Asia: the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi.
Anyone who loves hotels with history should try to stay here for at least one night. In a city that can be chaotic and frenetic, here is a haven of calm with a history dating back to 1901.
Pictured below, it is benchmark of regional hospitality, blending classic French style with the charm of IndoChina. It is a classic of its type; with smart staff, a range of food and beverage offerings, stylish rooms and suites, a swimming pool, and beautiful gardens, and two wings with different vibes.
If you do stay here, you’ll be sleeping where some of the biggest stars on the planet have laid their heads. From Noel Coward to Sir Michael Caine, Mick Jagger to Angelina Jolie, Jane Fonda to Roger Moore, Vladimir Putin to Joan Baez and Charlie Chaplin to Bill Clinton have all stayed here. Cartoon villains, too: Kim Jong-Un and Donald Trump.
During the American War (what we call the Vietnam War), bunkers underneath the hotel protected diplomats and dignitaries from American bombing raids. Guests can visit the recently rediscovered bunkers on one of the hotel’s nightly historic tours, which also feature a look at a painting done by Baez when she visited during the war – and she later donated back to the hotel.
It is that sort of place. Many of its well-heeled guests would not dream of staying anywhere else in Hanoi. It’s stylish but not stuffy, a colonial masterwork where hospitality is a practised art.
Hanoi may have gone through wholesale changes since Vietnam swung open its doors to tourism, but the Metropole is perfectly situated opposite the Opera House and within short walking distance from many historical and cultural landmarks.
The hotel has 358 rooms, but still manages to retain a boutique feel. The historic Heritage Wing has 94 guestrooms, six Metropole suites, and three Legendary suites – named after famous residents and visitors to the hotel (Graham Greene, Charlie Chaplin, Somerset Maugham, with private garden). The contemporary Opera Wing offers 236 guest rooms and 18 suites.
Each room in the Opera wing has been individually furnished and decorated in a neoclassical style. Executive rooms on the upper floors get services like a personal butler, afternoon tea, and evening cocktails. Located in the centre of the hotel, overlooking the garden courtyard and pool, is Le Spa du Metropole, while the rooftop garden balcony, Le Balcon, offers yoga and Tai Chi experiences to guests.
There are several dining options ranging from the Michelin-starred Le Beaulieu, known for the finest French fare in this part of the world, to Spice Garden, with its elegant Vietnamese cuisine.
I sampled the fusion food and cocktails at Angelina’s – named after former guest Angelina Jolie, while La Terrasse is a French-style sidewalk bar; Le Club Bar showcases afternoon high teas and cool jazz performances. Bamboo Bar caters to guests using the pool.
A total contrast to the Metropole, but also a lovely place to stay is the Pan Pacific Hanoi, where the dusk views from the 20th-floor rooftop bar (from where the top image was taken) stretch as far as the eye can see.
West Lake and Truc Bach Lake are immediately below you, with the city centre shining brightly in the distance. What looks like a floodlit stadium is actually the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, the great leader residing in splendour. The Summit rooftop bar is a magnet for those seeking views with a cocktail or two, and at sundown, there is the added bonus of a cooling evening breeze on the outdoor terrace.
The Pan Pacific is a classic multinational hotel with a superb location on the city fringes of the Vietnam capital. One afternoon I took a delightful lakeside walk, visited a pagoda and a temple, and watched local anglers hoping to catch a bite. The Pan Pacific is a towering landmark with a bustling lobby, a selection of wining and dining options (a Korean breakfast? No problem. Indian eats? Step this way).
Modern design meets Vietnamese style here; in a tranquil location that’s just a few minutes from the Old Quarter and other major attractions.
There are 272 rooms and 56 serviced suites with all modern comforts.
Ask for rooms with views overlooking West Lake and the Red River, or opt for the Pacific Club rooms or suites, which have several benefits, including lounge access and use of a computer and printer.
Privileges include private check-in and welcome drink in the Pacific Club Lounge, which offers free beverages throughout the day; afternoon teas; refreshments and appetisers from 5:30-7.30pm; free boardroom use should you need somewhere to hold a business meeting; complimentary pressing for one suit and one shirt upon arrival and complimentary laundry service for up to two pieces of clothing daily – a real bonus if you’ve been travelling non-stop.
Dining is diverse with the choice of international and Asian dishes at Pacifica Restaurant on the ground floor – a busy international dining room – or the adjacent Song Hong Bar or fellow lobby cohort Pastry Corner.
Tucked away on the second floor is one of the culinary highlights: Ming Restaurant, which is regarded as one of the best Cantonese restaurants in Hanoi and with a vibe that harks back to the golden days of Sydney’s Chinatown.
Established back in 1996, Ming is known for its excellent dim sum – I did my best to sample the range, but did opt out of eating braised chicken’s feet. All-you-can-eat dim sum and a la carte menus are available for both lunch and dinner and there is also a dim sum buffet. Then there is The Summit. Choose between inside or outdoor seating from 2pm to midnight. Think tapas like yakitori skewers, shrimp and mushroom croquettes and Korean chicken with pickles.
Other hotel highlights include a fitness centre with personal trainers, gym, jacuzzi and sauna. There are also regular yoga sessions.
The swimming pool is heated and has a covered option, while Santal Spa offers massages, facials, and body treatments.
Staff right throughout the hotel are uniformly helpful and mostly multi-lingual. See panpacific.com/hanoi
For those on a tight budget I can recommend the Shining Central Hotel & Spa on Lo Su Street in the heart of the Old Quarter.
Surrounded by dozens of restaurants and spa facilities, it has just 55 guest rooms and suites – banh mi emporiums, countless bun cha and pancakes are within a few metres, as is Colette, a fancy French-style wine bar.
Rooms here are unpretentious but do the job. Wifi, showers with hot water, comfortable beds, and in a nice, quiet location.
A double room will set you back around $23 a night. Yes, you read that right. See https://shiningcentralhotel.com/
The writer was a guest of the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi and the Pan Pacific Hanoi.
He was hosted by airline Vietjet, which flies to and from Ho Chi Minh City to major Australian cities like Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, and Perth, and also connects Hanoi to Sydney and Melbourne. Economy fares start at around $250, while business class fares with ie-flat beds begin at $1,100, with frequent seat sales on offer.
Next month: Danang: Vietnam’s next hot destination
You can see more of Winsor’s travel tips at www.gourmetontheroad.com.
