Wine with Winsor

Some exciting new wine releases and a special treat for Mother’s Day reviewed by Winsor Dobbin.

Pinot pleasure
Stoney Rise 2020 Pinot Noir
The price of good Tasmanian pinot noir has gone through the roof in recent vintages; and the cool-climate style is increasingly trendy. Joe Holyman from Stoney Rise in the Tamar Valley has kept his prices reasonable, however, and has a great sense of humour (check out the gibberish on the back label). He is also a maestro with pinot. This uses 90% estate fruit (grown overlooking the river) and uses older oak to add complexity to the vibrant fruit. Unfined, unfiltered and great value. $32.

Frisky treat
Pauletts 2020 Watervale Semillon
The Paulett family are best-known for their excellent value Clare Valley rieslings, but this semillon is another star in the range. A single-vineyard wine that uses unirrigated fruit, this is a wonderfully fresh and vibrant expression of semillon; lively and aromatic with zingy lemon flavours to the fore and driving acidity. Enjoy this in its youth, well chilled with some freshly shucked oysters. $25.

Bargain buy
Wolf Blass 2019 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon
This is an exclusive release to Aldi stores, where the wine range is not huge but there are often excellent bargains to be sniffed out. This is a blend of fruit from McLaren Vale, the Barossa and Adelaide Hills that hits all the right notes for casual or midweek drinking, or perhaps with a casual barbecue. Spicy and dark, this is a very Australian red in style; big and smooth. $16.

Serious style
Frankland River 2020 Isolation Ridge Riesling
The remote Great Southern region of Western Australia is now producing some of Australia’s finest dry rieslings – and this one is at the top of the pile with the ironstone rock on which the grapes are grown adding minerality and texture to the traditional dry citrus notes. The grapes are organically grown and provide a purity and intensity to the palate. Terrific with Thai stir fries. $45.

Something different
Bleasdale 2018 Generations Malbec
The malbec grape originated in France, has become a firm favourite in Argentina and is now very much at home in Australia, where it is often blended with cabernet sauvignon. The Potts family of historic Bleasdale in Langhorne Creek are among the most reliable producers. Think ripe blackberries, plums and clove spices. Bold, assertive and great with meat dishes. $40.

Mum’s treat
Leeuwin Estate 2018 Art Series Chardonnay
World-class chardonnay from one of the benchmark producers in Margaret River. This is the best high-end chardonnay of the year so far with intensity and drive. Aromas, flavours and textures are as tightly knit and beguiling as early Led Zeppelin and the end result is a white to rival the best of Burgundy; a wine of immense style and balance. The new oak is complemented by powerful citrus and white stone fruit resulting in serious finesse. A special treat for Mum. $126. 

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