Wine with Winsor – February 2022
A new year means time to try something different on the wine front. Winsor Dobbin has some suggestions.
Pretty little pink
Angullong 2021 Fossil Hill Rosé
The Angullong vineyards in the Central West of New South Wales are producing several impressive wines using grape varieties of Italian origin – and the Angullong cellar door at picturesque Millthorpe, outside Orange, is well worth a visit. Unoaked and made in an unashamed “drink now” style – this is created using 100% sangiovese grapes and has attractive strawberries and cream notes. Salmon pink, zingy and zesty and perfect for a picnic. $26.
Fun and games
Stargazer 2021 Rada
Former Wirra Wirra and Tower Estate winemaker Sam Connew is now firmly established in Tasmania, where she is crafting a range of idiosyncratic and appealing wines. This is a wild-fermented blend of pinot noir and pinot meunier sourced from the Tamar Valley in the north and the Coal River Valley in the south. It is vibrant and enticing and a perfect choice for a warm evening, perhaps slightly chilled. Juicy and crunchy with bright acidity on the palate, this would pair brilliantly with a backyard barbecue. Try Different Drop in Ultimo or Kent St Cellars. $35.
Serious style
Kooyong 2019 Faultline Chardonnay
Virtually every wine in the Kooyong range from the Mornington Peninsula is seriously stylish; crafted for lovers of good things who are willing to pay for the privilege of drinking well. This is drinking superbly after a couple of years, still quite tight but extremely food-friendly with an amalgam of flavours ranging from grapefruit to sweet biscuits. It is intense but alluring with a long, luscious finish. Well worth a splurge. Pair with some warm porchetta. $66.
Winner from the west
Howard Park Jeté NV Brut
Howard Park is one of the star producers from Margaret River and the Great Southern in Western Australia, and also produces a range of impressive sparkling wines under the Jeté label. This was a recent winner with my tasting group. Made using the Methodé Traditionelle, this is a very elegant aperitif-style bubbly without an extravagant price tag. Bright and lively, it offers floral, citrus, and light brioche notes. Serve well chilled. Try Dan Murphy’s. $36.
Something new
Jacob’s Creek 2019 A.J. Grenache
A.J. is the new label from the team behind the Jacob’s Creek ranges, made by Trina Smith in a bid to appeal to a younger female demographic. Ann Jacob, after whom the range is named, was a pioneering young woman with an interest in viticulture, and an early female landowner in South Australia, planting vines on her Barossa property in the early 1840s. The vineyard still thrives as part of Jacob’s Creek vineyards today. This is soft, fruit forward and lightly spicy. $30.
Tasmanian treat
Kate Hill 2021 Shiraz Rosé
A fresh and vibrant new release from a boutique producer in the Huon Valley in the deep south of Tasmania. An estate wine from a recently planted vineyard, this is a lively drop that is perfect for serving chilled for late summer enjoyment. Think pomegranate and cranberry flavours with a crisp, dry finish. Some spicy/savoury notes add palate interest. This would be great with Lebanese food, or a waterfront snack. Ergo Wines are the local distributor. $30.
See Winsor’s work at www.gourmetontheroad.com.
