Winter is still hanging around, so wine writer Winsor Dobbin has some mainly red – all totally delicious – wine suggestions from smaller producers to pair with warming and hearty dishes.
Sicilian gem
Feudo Arancio 2021 Nero d’Avola
This is a very affordable taste of Italy made from the nero d’Avola grape, which is a star turn in Sicily. Feudo Arancio (the Orange Farm) has two estates along the southern coast of the island and is known for offering good value wines with plenty of flavour. This is soft and smooth with a nice combination of bright fruit and subtle savoury notes. Think berry and fruit salad notes with just a hint of oak. The ideal choice for pairing with winter pasta and pizza dishes, or some calves’ liver with onions. Imported by Single Vineyard Sellers. Try Vintage Cellars, First Choice or Liquorland stores. $20.
Immediate appeal
Penny’s Hill 2021 Cracking Black Shiraz
The fruit for this lip-smacking McLaren Vale red is grown on grey-black soil that is prone to cracking when it is warm. Hence the name. It is the entry-level shiraz from a producer of renown and is a blend of fruit from two vineyards that offers immediate appeal with its fine plummy fruit and soft finish. Over a year spent in French oak has added some palate complexity and this would be a good match for stews and casserole dishes. Try Summer Hill Wine Shop. $25.
Hunter highlight
Meerea Park Chardonnay
When wine drinkers think about the Hunter Valley, they probably first consider shiraz or semillon, the two varieties for which that region is best known. There are, however, several producers making particularly good chardonnays – among them the Eather brothers at Meerea Park. This is one of three 2022 chardonnays in the Meerea Park range – and I could drink this by the bucketload. Lively citrus, more serious stone fruit and a smidgen of older oak influence produce a truly lovely drink. We enjoyed it with a Thai seafood stir fry and our bottle was empty quick smart. $25.
Banging blend
Kilikanoon 2019 Baudinet GSM
Here is a treat for pairing with winter dishes like lamb shanks, or sauteed mushrooms; a hearty blend of grenache, shiraz and mataro from a Clare Valley producer known for wines with big personalities. It is beautifully balanced with plenty of length on the palate. Named after Bruce Baudinet, a partner in Kilikanoon Wines and the vineyard owner from where the mataro and shiraz for the blend are grown. There is pleasing complexity on the palate, but it is a wine that is easy to enjoy. $55.
Yarra gem
d’Soumah 2022 Pinot Noir
Soumah – the name means south of the Maroondah Highway – is one of the rising stars of the Yarra Valley with an impressive range of compelling wines at very fair prices. This is a bright, lively young pinot thatis extremely food friendly – consider matching it with roast chicken or duck dishes, or a spring picnic. It is a wine with fresh acidity on the palate and some well-integrated oak. I would recommend enjoying this in its youth, and it could even be served lightly chilled. $34.
Prize winner
Watkins 2022 Grenache
I have not seen a lot of wines from Watkins, but this Langhorne Creek grenache delivers a lot of bang for your buck. The family-owned winery ticks a lot of hipster boxes with this offering being vegan-friendly, gluten free and “sustainably” grown. This is all about fresh, juicy, unfined grenache fruit. Unusually for a red wine there was no oak involved so the flavours to the fore here are red and black fruits with some appealing earthiness. Try with pork spare ribs. Excellent value for $24.
See more of Winsor’s wine reviews at www.gourmetontheroad.com
